India

So What is India Like?

I can't speak for the whole of India as I've only stayed in Delhi, Manali, Leh, and some remote areas. Delhi is pretty hectic, lots of people everywhere. It has a charm about it that many people can love but it certainly can scare away a lot of people who aren't accustomed to or afraid of it's grit. The rich and poor are often side by side. Manali and Leh are a lot more laid back, with a high tourist population but lower population overall.

 

 

Is it Safe?

It is generally quite safe, even for lone female travellers which Ive \see many of. I've only witnessed one act of aggression but otherwise there is very little violence. Your biggest threats are getting ripped off. Everyone wants your money on the street and they will hail you from every direction to buy their wares, both shop owners and 'touts'.

 

 

How do you handle the touts?

For the uninitiated (which was me a few weeks ago) they will prey on you and smell your innocence. I saw many travellers walking from the station to their hostel, backpacks fresh on their backs, being hounded by a variety of touts. Many were extremely frustrated and most made the mistake of engaging in conversation. Unfortunately, anyone who wants to talk to you wants your money. Very rarely people genuinely just want to talk to you but it is very difficult to discern who these people are and once again, it is very rare. 99% of the time a tout will begin a conversation with "hello sir/what are you looking for/can I help/I've been looking for you/money change" or a greeting in what they think is your native tongue (100% of Indians thought I was 100% Japanese, I now think I am possibly 50% Japanese and I'll be asking my mother some questions when I get back).

I have found the best way to get by is to totally ignore them, walk in a relaxed pace don't rush, act like you could not give a shit about what they have to say or sell. Do not shake anyone's hand (sometimes they will extend it right into you), do not say hello, do not say "no thanks" as this will just open a conversation and they will follow you. You can give them the slightest shake of the head or wave of the hand to show you are extremely disinterested, ie of course if you are disinterested. If you make eye contact, show interest in the slightest, or engage in conversation, it will take you a very long time to reach your destination. All the above of course, is without the need to be rude. There's also no need to be polite and say no thanks even if this may seem rude. It isn't.

 

 

What Should I Lookout For?

Generally, nobody will steal from your pocket but they will happily rip you off in the most cunning way. I had the laundry lady try to short change me 100 rupees and then act stupid when I raised a brow. Even when I took out a calculator she looked surprised at the maths. I had a little kid at a fruit stand try to leave out a few guavas from the bag when transferring them from the scales. After I gave him a funny look he put them back in. He also tried to put in the rotten guavas and sell me those. In a remote area Doc Hillbilly (a riding buddy) was shortchanged after the lady folded a 20 note in half to make it look like 2 notes. Check all change during all transactions.

The first sim I bought in Delhi never got credited with what I paid for, I couldn't find the shop again to complain. I think back now and realise the shop owner wasn't being courteous when he asked me what my plans were, he was finding out whether I'd be in town to follow up on his rorts. Keep that in mind. My second sim stopped working the next night but I managed to get partial refund after I went back to the shop and put garlic crusher through the guys eye (just joking it was actually a bottle opener).

Most common of all though is dual pricing, where tourists get a different price to the locals. It's kind of a fact of life but not everyone does it. Rickshaw drivers will often double the rate of a journey, although some are honest. A two kilometre journey should only cost about 50-60 rupees on the meter. Ask for the price before getting into rickshaw, always. Sometimes a driver will say you can pay 'as you like', don't do it and agree beforehand. If they are overcharging you, don't even bother negotiating as there are another 5 rickshaws 2m down the road. Walk away and don't look back. In some areas you can't avoid getting ripped off, but you can negotiate how much by. At some junctions they operate together and all agree on a fixed higher price for tourists. You can negotiate the rate down 30-40% but still won't get the local rate, that's just life. Once you're in the rickshaw they'll insist on taking you to their own destination, usually a shop from which they earn a commission from. You must insist bluntly that you don't want it, repeatedly. I found this happens less often in busier areas and more often in the smaller areas like Karol Bagh, which is just a few stops away from New Delhi.

 

What Do Things Cost ?

• 2L bottle of water - 25-30 rupees ($1AU - 55)
• an egg omelette sandwich at street vendor - 25
• a kilo of bananas - 50
• a kilo of fresh picked guavas - 60-80
• a kilo of very ripe borderline decaying guavas - 10
• a glass of sugarcane juice - 10
• serving of tandoori chicken, coke, and naan bread at a decent restaurant - 300
• Pizza at average restaurant - 180
• plate of fried rice / noodles at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant - 20/40 half/full
• toilet roll - 25
• hostel with double bed, aircon, wifi, private room, shower and toilet - 820/night @ Hotel The Spot
• ATM fee - 200-300 or sometimes 2-3% of withdrawal amount (most ATMs have a 10 000 per transaction limit)
• One hour with high-class escort - WHO DO YOU THINK I AM?!?!

 

 

Other notes

• use major ATMs to withdraw cash and pay by cash. Paying by card in some small places leaves you open to card swiping/fraud
• carry big notes in a separate compartment (500 rupees / $10 is a big note). Keep your 10/20 notes and coins o,2too big for some vendors as most things don't cost much.
• If you wish to ignore a beggar, ignore them properly, otherwise be discrete if you give them something
• always ask for price before placing an order or buying anything, always. Don't take a little innocent kid's face to mean he won't rip you off.
• don't be afraid to explore the city and walk off the main roads
• avoid eating anything that's made using the town water supply or street water. They readily wash utensils and plates in buckets of dirty water.

 

Overall, enjoy the chaos of India but keep your wits about you.